Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers Have A Ph Of

The pH of Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers: Understanding the Chemistry and Implications for Hair Health

Sodium hydroxide relaxers, also known as lye relaxers, are a powerful chemical treatment used to permanently straighten hair. Understanding the pH of these relaxers is crucial for anyone considering this treatment, as the high alkalinity plays a significant role in its effectiveness and potential risks. This article will delve into the chemical makeup of sodium hydroxide relaxers, explain their high pH levels, detail the implications for hair health, and address common concerns.

Introduction: The Power of pH

pH, or potential of hydrogen, is a measure of how acidic or alkaline a solution is. It's measured on a scale of 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. Solutions with a pH below 7 are acidic, while those above 7 are alkaline (or basic). The pH of a substance significantly impacts its chemical properties and reactivity. Sodium hydroxide (NaOH), commonly known as lye, is a highly alkaline substance with a pH of approximately 13-14 in solution. This extreme alkalinity is the key to its effectiveness in hair straightening.

The Chemistry Behind Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers: Breaking Down the Bonds

Hair is primarily composed of a protein called keratin, which contains strong disulfide bonds that determine its shape and texture. These bonds are responsible for the natural curl or straightness of your hair. Sodium hydroxide relaxers work by breaking these disulfide bonds. The high pH of the relaxer solution causes the hair's keratin structure to swell, making it more susceptible to chemical alteration. The hydroxide ions (OH⁻) in the sodium hydroxide solution attack the disulfide bonds, causing them to break and reform in a straighter configuration.

This process is irreversible, meaning the hair's structure is permanently altered. Once the bonds are broken and reformed, the hair will remain straight unless new hair grows from the root. The high pH is essential for this process; a lower pH wouldn't be effective in breaking the strong disulfide bonds.

The pH of Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers and Its Impact on Hair

The extremely high pH of sodium hydroxide relaxers (around 13-14) is what makes them so effective but also so damaging if not handled correctly. This high alkalinity can cause significant damage to the hair shaft:

Protein Degradation: The strong alkaline environment can break down the keratin proteins in the hair, leading to weakening and potential breakage. This degradation can manifest as dry, brittle hair that is prone to snapping.
Cuticle Damage: The hair cuticle, the outermost protective layer, is also vulnerable to the high pH. The alkaline solution can lift and damage the cuticle scales, making the hair shaft porous and susceptible to further damage, moisture loss, and breakage. This increased porosity can lead to problems with tangling and knotting.
Scalp Irritation: Sodium hydroxide relaxers can also irritate the scalp if not applied carefully. The strong alkaline solution can burn the skin, causing itching, redness, and inflammation. This is why it's crucial to follow instructions carefully and perform a strand test before applying the relaxer to the entire scalp.
Hair Elasticity Loss: The alteration of the hair's protein structure by the strong alkali reduces its elasticity. This means the hair becomes less resilient and more prone to breaking under stress such as combing or styling.

Understanding the Formulation: More Than Just Sodium Hydroxide

While sodium hydroxide is the primary active ingredient, commercial sodium hydroxide relaxers contain additional ingredients to help manage the alkalinity and improve the overall process:

Conditioning Agents: These ingredients help to minimize some of the damaging effects of the high pH. They aim to replenish moisture and help maintain some of the hair's structural integrity.
Thickeners: These ingredients provide viscosity to the relaxer, making it easier to apply and control.
Other Chemicals: Many formulations contain additional chemicals to enhance the relaxing process, improve the final outcome, or mitigate some of the negative side effects.

The precise formulation varies between brands and product types. Always read the product label and understand the complete list of ingredients to minimize potential risks.

Step-by-Step Application and Precautions

The application of sodium hydroxide relaxers should always be performed by a trained professional. Improper application can lead to serious hair damage and scalp burns. However, understanding the general process is crucial for making informed decisions. A typical application involves:

Strand Test: A small section of hair is treated with the relaxer to assess its reaction and determine the necessary processing time. This test is crucial to prevent over-processing.
Preparation: The hair is thoroughly cleansed and sectioned to ensure even application.
Application: The relaxer is applied to the hair, usually working in small sections. The time the relaxer remains on the hair is crucial; over-processing leads to damage, while under-processing results in incomplete straightening.
Neutralization: After the appropriate processing time, a neutralizer is applied. This neutralizer typically has an acidic pH that helps to stop the chemical reaction and restore the hair's pH balance.
Rinsing and Conditioning: The hair is thoroughly rinsed and a deep conditioner is applied to help restore some moisture and improve manageability.

It is strongly recommended to consult a professional hair stylist experienced with sodium hydroxide relaxers for application. Attempting to apply these relaxers at home without proper training and understanding can lead to severe damage.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Are there less damaging alternatives to sodium hydroxide relaxers? A: Yes, other chemical relaxers exist, including those based on guanidine hydroxide or lithium hydroxide. These alternatives generally have a lower pH than sodium hydroxide, resulting in less damage, but they still carry risks. Also, various methods of straightening hair exist, including keratin treatments and thermal straightening using heat tools. However, these methods are not permanent like sodium hydroxide relaxers.
Q: How can I minimize damage after using a sodium hydroxide relaxer? A: Post-treatment care is crucial. This includes using deep conditioners regularly, avoiding harsh shampoos, and minimizing heat styling. Regular trims are also recommended to remove damaged ends.
Q: How often can I use a sodium hydroxide relaxer? A: The frequency depends on individual hair type and health. However, frequent use can severely damage the hair. It’s best to consult a professional to determine the appropriate timeframe between treatments.
Q: What are the signs of over-processing with a sodium hydroxide relaxer? A: Over-processing can lead to hair breakage, extreme dryness, and a weakened, brittle texture. The hair may feel extremely fragile and even gummy.
Q: What should I do if I experience scalp burns after using a sodium hydroxide relaxer? A: If you experience scalp burns, rinse the affected area immediately with cool water and seek medical attention. Severe burns may require professional treatment.

Conclusion: Informed Choices for Hair Health

Sodium hydroxide relaxers, despite their effectiveness in straightening hair, carry significant risks due to their high pH. The strong alkaline solution can cause substantial damage to the hair and scalp if not handled properly. Understanding the chemical processes involved, the potential risks, and the importance of professional application is vital. While these relaxers can provide a desired aesthetic outcome, it's crucial to weigh the potential risks against the benefits and prioritize hair health. Choosing a qualified stylist, meticulous aftercare, and realistic expectations are key to minimizing damage and achieving the desired results. Remember, healthy hair is always the best foundation for any styling choice. Prioritizing hair health through informed choices and professional guidance will ultimately lead to more satisfying and long-lasting results.